Sunday, April 09, 2006
お待たせしました！
I've got a little time and I'm feeling much better so I best start recapping my weekend immediately. It was wonderful!
Friday - Kyoto Sampler: I met Mom at her hotel and we embarked on a day trip around town to give her a sense of where things are and see what things there are to see. Much to my relief, the hotel proved to be wholly sufficient for her needs. I had spent a lot of time worrying that the limited amenities and small space would be a bother to her. With this knowledge I was able to relax a little bit and concentrate on showing her around.
Our first stop was the former Imperial Palace which happened to be totally open to the public for the weekend. I don't quite understand why but it seems that only on selected occasions are people allowed to visit the palace grounds. I wouldn't say the buildings blew me away (which we couldn't enter either) but the grounds were quite nice and the notion that I got to do something special always makes even mundane sights extraordinary. Also, the seasonal cherry blossoms made the surrounding park extra attractive.
After the palace our time was running a little short. Most temples and shrines close between 4 and 5 but we were eager to fit in another experience before thinking about dinner. Fortunately, Nijo Castle was relatively close by and it would serve as a good follow-up since we would be allowed to walk inside the main building. Those of you paying close attention to the blog will remember that I have visited Nijo twice before but this time would be different thanks to the cherry blossoms. Yes, they really do add a lot to these gardens and attractions. Mom also tells me they smell wonderful but thanks to my cold I wouldn't know about that. We slipped into Nijo just before they closed the doors and got in an hour or so inside before everyone had to get out.
Our next stop was kind of a happy coincidence. The innkeeper at Mom's hotel had suggested to us that if we went to a specific street at 6PM we could see some real-life geisha on their way to work. Unfortunately, his directions to said street were anything but specific, he just made some red dots near Gion on a map. We tried to find them but had little luck, as a totally different street seemed to be especially decorated for the geisha. However, since we were in Gion I pointed out a store that I knew Mako liked so Mom could buy her a present (which Mom had previously expressed a strong interest in doing). After shopping we went geisha hunting again and actually managed to spot two apprentices known as maiko. So it was a nice win-win situation.
Things got disappointing when we sat down for dinner. I had been interested in trying a particular Chinese restaurant located in a prominent place on Shijo street next to the Kamo River. The building is relatively big and looks pretty old so I always wanted to know what the food was like inside. We opted to find out and we ordered very little - just some fried rice and some Peking Duck. However, we were expecting to eat duck meat which is what you get at most Chinese restaurants in the US. Apparently, the more traditional serving is merely four slices of duck skin with some pancakes and vegetables (imagine the presentation of moo shu). We were understandably confused, so much so that I actually had to call the waitress back and ask her if the rest of the dish came later. She assured us the dish was complete. Mom actually wouldn't eat it and I was amazed at how much this wasn't what we had ordered (at least, not in our heads) but I figured since we had this food I might as well enjoy it.
After we finished I decided I had to try and express our dissatisfaction with the waitress. I managed (in Japanese) to tell her how disappointed we were (a recent vocabulary find) and what we had wanted to eat. Naturally, she politely repeated her explanation that what we received is exactly what "Peking Duck" is. At the time, I simply couldn't come to terms with that explanation, not to mention the cost of nearly 4000 Yen (about 1000 per slice)! However, I had no other recourse. Truth be told, I was okay with the taste and I actually found the dish satisfying but the idea that four slices of skin would serve two people was far-fetched. Luckily I didn't try to press any further; subsequent inquiries of Mako and Wikipedia indicate that when you say "Peking Duck" in Japan, you're looking to eat skin. I guess you learn something new everyday, I just wish the lesson had been less expensive. To her credit, Mom wasn't angry at me or the restaurant at all. I guess she couldn't have been very hungry.
Saturday - Full Bloom Madness: For a total change of pace and scenery, we met in Osaka on Saturday morning. I was a little nervous about having Mom get to Osaka by herself (I did offer to come to Kyoto to meet her first) but she rightly insisted that she could manage on her own. Indeed, she got to Osaka before I did which saved me the anxiety of waiting for her and wondering if I had made a horrible mistake. Together we met Mako at the station and then rode together to Osaka Castle to have a taste of the hanami experience, although we did not plan on picnicking that day.
Although I had visited the park once before, I had never actually spent much time in the area before and I certainly never went inside the castle. I had always been put off by the fact that the whole building was a 20th century recreation (with an elevator no less). After all, if Himeji Castle is the real deal and only a train ride away, why bother with the simulacrum at all? Thankfully I had the wrong idea entirely. Not only was the park full of beautiful cherry blossoms and other trees, the castle itself offered a great view of the city and the museum inside was pretty interesting. It has a completely modern interior though which is a pretty funny contrast to the historical exterior. Basically, Himeji is a castle with a museum inside while Osaka is a castle-shaped museum.
After our ascent and descent we met up with Scott and his girlfriend Emi and we ended up walking around the park for a while and sat for a spell. We did down a few light snacks (including a brand-new Kit Kat flavor) and played catch for a while. At first it was just me and Scott (much to Mako's amusement?) but then the girls gave it a try. My aged mitt was apparently too dirty for Mako to use (the insides are eroding so it makes your fingers look like you've been mining for coal) but she took Scott's new glove and Emi used mine.
Our field day over, Scott and Emi left while we journeyed south to visit some more of Osaka, in particular the Shinsekai market and Tsutenkaku tower. Both are frequently photographed representations of the city but I had yet to visit either one. The tower would have been a lot cooler if the sky had been clearer; as it was, we didn't have much a view of anything (not nearly as much as the castle had given us a few hours earlier). We walked north through Den Den Town where I managed to explain Hard Gay to my mother just in time to catch him "in action" in a video display.
We ended up eating dinner together just off of Dotonbori in a surprisingly nice restaurant. The specialty of the house was Chankonabe, the favorite dish of sumo wrestlers (so you know it has to be good). Basically it's a giant dish with a ton of different ingredients tossed in - meats, veggies, konnyaku, whatever! It ended being the first truly "Japanese" thing Mom had eaten since she arrived and I think she really liked it.
Mom and Mako left after dinner (with Mako taking charge of ensuring Mom got on the right train back to Kyoto) while I met up with Scott on the canal and hung out for a while. I know it sounds cheesy (Mako always stares at me when I say this) but Dotonbori is just a really awesome place. The lights and people combine into an exciting element that seems to overtake me. I suppose that's like someone getting all worked up over Times Square but it's simply not the same thing. All I can offer as an explanation is that Dotonbori retains a uniqueness that Times Square does not, despite the fact that both are full of stores and restaurants one can find anywhere else. Maybe it's the slight edge of seediness that Dotonbori has retained which Times Square completely shed during the 90's?
Scott was going to meet some folks in a new place called "Slices" in nearby Shinsaibashi. The ad he showed me boasted of "authentic Canadian pizza" which I had to laugh at. That's not a slight against Canada (I'm sure they have adequate pizza there), it's just the idea that Canadian pizza is considered noteworthy struck me as hilarious. That's like trying to draw attention to "authentic New York baked beans."
The pizza ended up being pretty good because it's the first truly Western-style pizza I've had since August of last year - a long wait for a pizza addict like myself. Japanese pizza is good but it's nowhere near the same as the dish that I know and love from back home. This Canadian offering was at least a worthy substitute. Also, the proprietor was a very friendly Chinese-Canadian woman from Toronto. I shall certainly go there again in the future, hopefully with Mako so she can get a sense of what other pizza is like.
What of the people Scott and I met? They were nice but I was too tired and sick to offer up much conversation. I know I often play things low-key but add any energy-sapping strikes against me and I completely collapse, socially speaking. Maybe I'll make more of an impression next time - they all seemed to like Scott.
Sunday - Pink-nic: Today we finally got down to business and went for a hanami picnic in Kyoto's Maruyama Park. Mako supplied the lunch which she prepared herself, although her mother also chipped in and made some onigiri with eel inside especially for me. Somehow Mako even knew that I love deviled eggs even though I can't imagine how and when I would have mentioned that. Anyway, she made those too. Everything was great and, of course, the park was incredibly beautiful. While my cold was much improved, I could smell lunch but not the flowers. Oh well, better luck next year I guess.
We had eaten our fill of food but we still needed more flowers so we went uptown to the City Zoo. You all know I love zoos but Mom loves them too - this amused Mako tremendously. The zoo was pretty small but a wise person decided to fill it with cherry blossoms, giving the visitors a double spectacle to behold. As if the blooming trees weren't enough hints, many of the animals also did their best to remind us that spring is in the air. I don't think I've ever seen a "friskier" collection of animals before.
Having completely seen the zoo inside and out, we slowly made our way back towards the center of town, taking in plenty of more trees along the way and hitting a few shops as well. We were going to take a bus since we all bought day-passes but they were running well behind schedule and they were jam-packed as well. Once we decided to walk I think we ended up having more fun anyway. The weather this weekend has been a little cooler than normal but not so much that walking outside becomes a burden. Dinner became another fun Japanese experience at a yakiniku restaurant. On a personal note, I discovered how painful it is to eat a whole clove of garlic without sufficiently roasting it first. The taste is the same - wonderful - but the sheer power of it "burned" my tongue and made me cry a little.
So let's see: Mom likes Japan, Mako likes my Mom (she loved the present BTW) and I'm sure Mom likes Mako - she even hugged her tonight! I love my Mom, Mako and Japan - especially this time of year. Honestly, I cannot get enough of these amazing cherry blossoms. This was the first week in my life seeing them and it's like the entire country is transformed by them. To all the wonderful people in my life who came to visit me this winter, I'm sorry, but you missed out. This Japan is simply nicer than the one you saw. You're going to have to come back sometime; I know I'll be here to greet you because this is definitely not going to be my last hanami.
Pictures, when I finish sorting them, will be seen here. Hopefully they'll be ready by Tuesday although I do have to get back to the business of schoolwork now. Still, with my Mom in town how can I choose a lecture over her? Can you believe Mako is offering to take a day off from work just to show her around some more?
Friday - Kyoto Sampler: I met Mom at her hotel and we embarked on a day trip around town to give her a sense of where things are and see what things there are to see. Much to my relief, the hotel proved to be wholly sufficient for her needs. I had spent a lot of time worrying that the limited amenities and small space would be a bother to her. With this knowledge I was able to relax a little bit and concentrate on showing her around.
Our first stop was the former Imperial Palace which happened to be totally open to the public for the weekend. I don't quite understand why but it seems that only on selected occasions are people allowed to visit the palace grounds. I wouldn't say the buildings blew me away (which we couldn't enter either) but the grounds were quite nice and the notion that I got to do something special always makes even mundane sights extraordinary. Also, the seasonal cherry blossoms made the surrounding park extra attractive.
After the palace our time was running a little short. Most temples and shrines close between 4 and 5 but we were eager to fit in another experience before thinking about dinner. Fortunately, Nijo Castle was relatively close by and it would serve as a good follow-up since we would be allowed to walk inside the main building. Those of you paying close attention to the blog will remember that I have visited Nijo twice before but this time would be different thanks to the cherry blossoms. Yes, they really do add a lot to these gardens and attractions. Mom also tells me they smell wonderful but thanks to my cold I wouldn't know about that. We slipped into Nijo just before they closed the doors and got in an hour or so inside before everyone had to get out.
Our next stop was kind of a happy coincidence. The innkeeper at Mom's hotel had suggested to us that if we went to a specific street at 6PM we could see some real-life geisha on their way to work. Unfortunately, his directions to said street were anything but specific, he just made some red dots near Gion on a map. We tried to find them but had little luck, as a totally different street seemed to be especially decorated for the geisha. However, since we were in Gion I pointed out a store that I knew Mako liked so Mom could buy her a present (which Mom had previously expressed a strong interest in doing). After shopping we went geisha hunting again and actually managed to spot two apprentices known as maiko. So it was a nice win-win situation.
Things got disappointing when we sat down for dinner. I had been interested in trying a particular Chinese restaurant located in a prominent place on Shijo street next to the Kamo River. The building is relatively big and looks pretty old so I always wanted to know what the food was like inside. We opted to find out and we ordered very little - just some fried rice and some Peking Duck. However, we were expecting to eat duck meat which is what you get at most Chinese restaurants in the US. Apparently, the more traditional serving is merely four slices of duck skin with some pancakes and vegetables (imagine the presentation of moo shu). We were understandably confused, so much so that I actually had to call the waitress back and ask her if the rest of the dish came later. She assured us the dish was complete. Mom actually wouldn't eat it and I was amazed at how much this wasn't what we had ordered (at least, not in our heads) but I figured since we had this food I might as well enjoy it.
After we finished I decided I had to try and express our dissatisfaction with the waitress. I managed (in Japanese) to tell her how disappointed we were (a recent vocabulary find) and what we had wanted to eat. Naturally, she politely repeated her explanation that what we received is exactly what "Peking Duck" is. At the time, I simply couldn't come to terms with that explanation, not to mention the cost of nearly 4000 Yen (about 1000 per slice)! However, I had no other recourse. Truth be told, I was okay with the taste and I actually found the dish satisfying but the idea that four slices of skin would serve two people was far-fetched. Luckily I didn't try to press any further; subsequent inquiries of Mako and Wikipedia indicate that when you say "Peking Duck" in Japan, you're looking to eat skin. I guess you learn something new everyday, I just wish the lesson had been less expensive. To her credit, Mom wasn't angry at me or the restaurant at all. I guess she couldn't have been very hungry.
Saturday - Full Bloom Madness: For a total change of pace and scenery, we met in Osaka on Saturday morning. I was a little nervous about having Mom get to Osaka by herself (I did offer to come to Kyoto to meet her first) but she rightly insisted that she could manage on her own. Indeed, she got to Osaka before I did which saved me the anxiety of waiting for her and wondering if I had made a horrible mistake. Together we met Mako at the station and then rode together to Osaka Castle to have a taste of the hanami experience, although we did not plan on picnicking that day.
Although I had visited the park once before, I had never actually spent much time in the area before and I certainly never went inside the castle. I had always been put off by the fact that the whole building was a 20th century recreation (with an elevator no less). After all, if Himeji Castle is the real deal and only a train ride away, why bother with the simulacrum at all? Thankfully I had the wrong idea entirely. Not only was the park full of beautiful cherry blossoms and other trees, the castle itself offered a great view of the city and the museum inside was pretty interesting. It has a completely modern interior though which is a pretty funny contrast to the historical exterior. Basically, Himeji is a castle with a museum inside while Osaka is a castle-shaped museum.
After our ascent and descent we met up with Scott and his girlfriend Emi and we ended up walking around the park for a while and sat for a spell. We did down a few light snacks (including a brand-new Kit Kat flavor) and played catch for a while. At first it was just me and Scott (much to Mako's amusement?) but then the girls gave it a try. My aged mitt was apparently too dirty for Mako to use (the insides are eroding so it makes your fingers look like you've been mining for coal) but she took Scott's new glove and Emi used mine.
Our field day over, Scott and Emi left while we journeyed south to visit some more of Osaka, in particular the Shinsekai market and Tsutenkaku tower. Both are frequently photographed representations of the city but I had yet to visit either one. The tower would have been a lot cooler if the sky had been clearer; as it was, we didn't have much a view of anything (not nearly as much as the castle had given us a few hours earlier). We walked north through Den Den Town where I managed to explain Hard Gay to my mother just in time to catch him "in action" in a video display.
We ended up eating dinner together just off of Dotonbori in a surprisingly nice restaurant. The specialty of the house was Chankonabe, the favorite dish of sumo wrestlers (so you know it has to be good). Basically it's a giant dish with a ton of different ingredients tossed in - meats, veggies, konnyaku, whatever! It ended being the first truly "Japanese" thing Mom had eaten since she arrived and I think she really liked it.
Mom and Mako left after dinner (with Mako taking charge of ensuring Mom got on the right train back to Kyoto) while I met up with Scott on the canal and hung out for a while. I know it sounds cheesy (Mako always stares at me when I say this) but Dotonbori is just a really awesome place. The lights and people combine into an exciting element that seems to overtake me. I suppose that's like someone getting all worked up over Times Square but it's simply not the same thing. All I can offer as an explanation is that Dotonbori retains a uniqueness that Times Square does not, despite the fact that both are full of stores and restaurants one can find anywhere else. Maybe it's the slight edge of seediness that Dotonbori has retained which Times Square completely shed during the 90's?
Scott was going to meet some folks in a new place called "Slices" in nearby Shinsaibashi. The ad he showed me boasted of "authentic Canadian pizza" which I had to laugh at. That's not a slight against Canada (I'm sure they have adequate pizza there), it's just the idea that Canadian pizza is considered noteworthy struck me as hilarious. That's like trying to draw attention to "authentic New York baked beans."
The pizza ended up being pretty good because it's the first truly Western-style pizza I've had since August of last year - a long wait for a pizza addict like myself. Japanese pizza is good but it's nowhere near the same as the dish that I know and love from back home. This Canadian offering was at least a worthy substitute. Also, the proprietor was a very friendly Chinese-Canadian woman from Toronto. I shall certainly go there again in the future, hopefully with Mako so she can get a sense of what other pizza is like.
What of the people Scott and I met? They were nice but I was too tired and sick to offer up much conversation. I know I often play things low-key but add any energy-sapping strikes against me and I completely collapse, socially speaking. Maybe I'll make more of an impression next time - they all seemed to like Scott.
Sunday - Pink-nic: Today we finally got down to business and went for a hanami picnic in Kyoto's Maruyama Park. Mako supplied the lunch which she prepared herself, although her mother also chipped in and made some onigiri with eel inside especially for me. Somehow Mako even knew that I love deviled eggs even though I can't imagine how and when I would have mentioned that. Anyway, she made those too. Everything was great and, of course, the park was incredibly beautiful. While my cold was much improved, I could smell lunch but not the flowers. Oh well, better luck next year I guess.
We had eaten our fill of food but we still needed more flowers so we went uptown to the City Zoo. You all know I love zoos but Mom loves them too - this amused Mako tremendously. The zoo was pretty small but a wise person decided to fill it with cherry blossoms, giving the visitors a double spectacle to behold. As if the blooming trees weren't enough hints, many of the animals also did their best to remind us that spring is in the air. I don't think I've ever seen a "friskier" collection of animals before.
Having completely seen the zoo inside and out, we slowly made our way back towards the center of town, taking in plenty of more trees along the way and hitting a few shops as well. We were going to take a bus since we all bought day-passes but they were running well behind schedule and they were jam-packed as well. Once we decided to walk I think we ended up having more fun anyway. The weather this weekend has been a little cooler than normal but not so much that walking outside becomes a burden. Dinner became another fun Japanese experience at a yakiniku restaurant. On a personal note, I discovered how painful it is to eat a whole clove of garlic without sufficiently roasting it first. The taste is the same - wonderful - but the sheer power of it "burned" my tongue and made me cry a little.
So let's see: Mom likes Japan, Mako likes my Mom (she loved the present BTW) and I'm sure Mom likes Mako - she even hugged her tonight! I love my Mom, Mako and Japan - especially this time of year. Honestly, I cannot get enough of these amazing cherry blossoms. This was the first week in my life seeing them and it's like the entire country is transformed by them. To all the wonderful people in my life who came to visit me this winter, I'm sorry, but you missed out. This Japan is simply nicer than the one you saw. You're going to have to come back sometime; I know I'll be here to greet you because this is definitely not going to be my last hanami.
Pictures, when I finish sorting them, will be seen here. Hopefully they'll be ready by Tuesday although I do have to get back to the business of schoolwork now. Still, with my Mom in town how can I choose a lecture over her? Can you believe Mako is offering to take a day off from work just to show her around some more?
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Yay! It's good to hear you so happy. BTW-- why didn't Emi mind using the dirty glove that Mako refused?
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Wow, fantastic post, I'm so glad to hear you and Mom are having a great time. Plus, Mako, Scott...sounds great. I was aware while in Japan that it would be pretty darn nice to come in Spring. Winter was cold, but there were almost no tourists...that was a good thing. I hope to visit you again when you go back! I'll start saving now.
Mystic: Thanks. I know I am. Weekends like this serve as a great reminder of that!
Salena: My pictures (which will be ready momentarily) don't do it justice. It has to be seen. In the meantime, try to get down to Washington or even Brooklyn next spring, the blossoms can be seen there.
コメントがあります？ Type something, please. It's less work for me.Salena: My pictures (which will be ready momentarily) don't do it justice. It has to be seen. In the meantime, try to get down to Washington or even Brooklyn next spring, the blossoms can be seen there.
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