Saturday, September 03, 2005

Two out of Three Ain't Bad 

Whew...I went out Friday night, got drunk and spent the night at Kazu's house. By the time I got home today my ass was killing me!

*ahem* Perhaps I should elaborate on that a little?

Friday was a pretty busy day in school. Kazu and I met for lunch for the first time since June. We ended up eating with a few people we knew from Albany: Ryan and Jacques, along with a student from Russia named Elina. Or was it Erina? Cripes, I forgot! Anyway, Kazu and I had planned on making plans to do something this weekend and the other three were trying to make plans for later that evening. So we all made plans to meet together at the Hirakata City station after classes and go out drinking in Osaka, specifically the Nanba district.


Here's another helping of Engrish, this time as seen on a cigarette vending machine.

I still had two other classes to get through first and it wasn't easy. I was up pretty late typing yesterday's long post and I had woken up early to go to bank before class today so I was a little drowsy by the afternoon. I guess Hyde was right; sometimes blogging can feel like a burden but I still maintain that it's worth it, if only for my peace of mind.

Justice class was hella fun as we were split up into groups so that we could organize our own model nations and then go about deciding our own laws. Professor Tracy spent a long time on this because he wanted to make sure that the groups wouldn't agree on anything too easily! Since we only had three Japanese students, he decided on making three groups. He then separated out the Dutch students, then students from civil European nations, then other nations and finally he went about dividing the American students. In particular, I got put aside with two other students from New York.

Once he had us split up by origin, he went about putting as together. Each team got one Japanese student, one Dutch student and one New Yorker. Then he distributed the civil Europeans, trying not to bunch them up together. He took special delight in one girl who goes to a Swedish business school and she ended up on my team. I wonder if he thought we'd agree or disagree? I certainly said something stupid right away. When the teams were finally settled, I said: "So our team has three Americans and five non-Americans?" I had meant it to be a positive affirmation of our international mix but she seemed to take offense, replying, "Yes, that's how it should be!" So much for diplomacy!

I'm ashamed to admit that I nodded off briefly in my Western Images of Japan class. Don't worry, I won't fall behind or anything. We spent the class looking at some of the earliest views of Japan from explorers and the like. We spent a great deal of time talking about Commodore Perry and his visits to Japan in the 1850's. I found it quite amusing when the professor showed us Japanese drawings of him. He was drawn like a monster, with a giant nose, bright red lips and a full beard (which Perry didn't have, for the record). I guess everyone views a new culture as savage when first they meet.

After that class, Kazu came back to my room here at the dorm. We decided that we would try to go out to Amanohashidate the next day as Kazu had already asked his father to borrow the car. Back in the States, Kazu often talked about how much he missed driving and he had promised to drive me around when we were in Japan. This seemed like a great opportunity to do that as the site was quite distant (and expensive) via trains. Kazu also said it was OK if I stayed at his house tonight so we could just leave first thing in the morning. So I packed a few things and we took the bus to Hirakata station.


From left to right: Jacques, his girlfriend Manami and Kazu. I apologize for the red-eye effect as I don't have access to my usual clean-up software on the school's computers.

We took a sequence of trains into the heart of Osaka. I must say, emerging from the station really gave me a great sensation. This was the Japan I was waiting to experience! Bright lights and busy streets, not blistering heat in quiet suburban hell. I took a lot of pictures in succession, here are the ones that were in focus:


Street shot from Nanba on a Friday night. We're not inside, strictly speaking. Some streets with lots of stores will just have a roof over certain blocks.


This is the Dotonbori neighborhood. I'd compare it to Times Square but this place actually seemed cool.


Here's the other side of the street across from the big crab. I could have spent an hour just taking pictures. I never even got to the canal!


Ryan got caught in this shot. For some reason, he apologized. It's all good! People are supposed to be hanging out here.


We went to an izakaya known as Wara Wara, wara (笑) being Japanese for "laugh" or "smile." So it's supposed to be a fun place where people laugh and smile. Obviously, drinking helps. A lot. I lost count of how many beers I had or even how many different things I tasted. It was very communal; everyone ate a little bit of everything. I did try to respect my diet and avoided too many carbs but I was drinking a lot of beer. Jacques maintains that with all the walking we're doing we should be able to eat and drink all we want and not worry about that. He might be right. Still, I ordered a pretty tasty seafood salad.


See? Wara Wara, spelled out for you.


L to R: Kazu, Elina (I'll check on that), Ryan, Jacques, Manami, me.


As the drinks flowed, I got tipsy for the first time since I arrived here in Japan. Then I had a few more and I got pretty drunk. I wanted a photo of the entire group and someone suggested we ask a waiter. I instead turned to the table across from ours and asked them to do it. However, I fumbled the sentence a little and instead of asking them to photograph us, I actually asked for permission to photograph them. I corrected my mistake but everyone got a laugh out of it.


And then I took their picture!

You may notice that they were smoking. This reminded me that here in Japan you're allowed to drink and smoke indoors (it's easy to forget, given that New York outlawed it a while ago). I hit up a vending machine in the restaurant for a cheap (270!) pack of Mild Seven. It's a native brand that I rarely (if ever) see in the States so I figured it was worth buying for the novelty alone. Still drunk and emboldened by my earlier success, I asked the next table for a light. I thought I'd learn a new vocabulary word in the process but all you need to say is Raitaa ga arimasu ka? ("Do you have a lighter?") They did, of course.


Is this really cool? I thought so at the time.


The red-eye actually seems to suit Ryan in this shot.


The "party" was still rolling when Kazu suggested that we head over to his home. I was quite hammered by this point but I didn't want to miss out on our sightseeing plan. Anyway, there was talk of dancing which usually scares the drink right out of me so it was an opportune time to split. I laid down a modest sum of cash to cover my share of the bill (no tipping, thankfully) and we left.

I remember walking on the streets with Kazu and feeling fantastic. Sure, I was loaded and prone to that sensation but here we were, in Osaka on Friday night, people all around us and we were having fun! Drinks or no drinks, it was a wonderful moment to have and to remember. Along the way I opted for another cigarette and figured I'd just ask a stranger on the street. I waited until we saw a young woman smoking (way more fun than asking some tough guy) and tried my luck. Not only did she agree, she let me keep it! Come to Japan, where cigarette lighters are free for the taking!

When we got to Kazu's house I did my best to sober up quickly. I hated the idea of meeting his family for the first time drunk! Still, I don't think there's the same cultural stigma attached to drinking here; I think a young man like myself is expected to go out drinking on Friday night with my co-workers or fellow students. Just in case, I was super-polite, bowing and thanking her profusely for letting me stay. In order to save time in the morning, I took a shower before going to bed which happens to be the Japanese custom anyway. I thought it would clear my head but it didn't do much. I hit the bathroom one last time before bed and get this: in addition to a high-tech washlet, Kazu's bathroom has a full-size urinal! He says this is not uncommon in Japan. I did my best to fall asleep but I was quite drunk and I'm still not 100% used to lying on the floor.

We got going really early the next morning because Kazu had heard it would take several hours to reach Amanohashidate. I had a splitting headache (no surprise there) which seemed to overly concern Kazu and his mom. I could understand her reaction but why would Kazu be nervous? He's seen me like this many times before. I assured them I would be fine so long as I could take something for my headache. Kazu gave me some kind of Japanese pain killer that warned not to take it on an empty stomach. I absolutely wasn't hungry in the slightest so I just took it anyway. We took off in his father's car before seven AM. I hope the next time I visit Kazu's home I can be a little more charming as his mom was very nice to me.

As we rode out the pain killers made short work of my headache. Unfortunately, they also made me feel queasy. That, or I was trying to read so many signs that I made myself motion-sick. I figured the best answer was to just try and keep my eyes closed and let my body settle. I got about two hours of napping in and then I felt much better. We stopped at a convenience store for some onigiri which really helped settle my stomach. I also used the facilities which, thankfully, were not the old-fashioned "squat" style. I doubt my equilibrium would have allowed me to balance myself very well.

It was a very long drive although not in distance. We were just going around so many mountains that it took hours on end even though it was only a few hundred kilometers. Also, Japanese speed limits are pretty low. Even on straight, multi-lane roads we were never authorized to exceed 80 kph, a mere 50 mph to us Americans. Also causing delays was Kazu's struggle with the map. He simply wasn't positive about which way to go and we often had to stop to consult the map or even ask for help. In fairness to Kazu, I think Japanese road signs leave much to be desired. There were quite a few times where had to make a turn and there simply wasn't a clear indication of which way to go.


Kazu reviews the map again. I wasn't as helpful as I wanted to be because his map is mostly in Japanese.


I try to avoid taking pictures of generic pachinko parlors but I was amused by the English signage and the odd choice of the Statue of Liberty on top.




Typical shots of rural Japan. Lots of farm land out here.


Getting closer! Notice that road signs feature romanized names, much like the trains do.


We finally got to our destination around noon. Yeah, you heard right, it took over five hours. Amanohashidate is essentially a natural "bridge" across Miyazu Bay. While we could see it as we drove in, the best way to view it was to park and go up a mountain to view it from up high.


You could walk up...


...but this chair lift was much more fun. That's Kazu sitting ahead of me.



Once at the top, we got to really get a good look at Amanohashidate. I took some high-quality photos which I've placed on a separate page. Unfortunately my camera's battery gave out after only a few shots. I would have liked more warning but the charge had lasted for weeks so it was just a matter of really, really shitty timing.

We spent a little while hanging out up there. I had some ice cream because it was super hot and humid (as usual). It started to rain so we stuck around a little longer, grabbed a bite to eat even, before heading back down. We weren't sure what to do next. Kazu made note of several local onsen but I simply couldn't do that for a number of reasons. First and foremost, I hate hot weather and I cannot fathom dealing with it by climbing into even hotter water. Secondly, and this is the less defensible position, I am not comfortable with public nudity. It was strange enough to be seen shirtless by Kazu's mother in his house; I can't even imagine being naked around anyone who happens to drop in for a bath. No, onsen are not co-ed (most of them anyway) but that's not the problem. I don't care to display myself like that and I don't know if I ever will.

We visited a temple near the base of the mountain but otherwise we started back home to Osaka. There was some confusion over the best way back. I felt we should just take the highway that we had avoided coming up. Sure, it wouldn't be very scenic and the cost would be high but I couldn't handle another five or six hours driving back. Indeed, we came very far in ninety minutes on the highway before Kazu exited in an attempt to get straight back to Hirakata. It was only about 100 kilometers but it cost nearly 3000 Yen! You could drive from New York to Buffalo and back and not break $20.

Here's where things got ugly. Kazu's unfamiliarity with the route combined with high traffic led to very slow progress. He eventually suggested (although not directly) that it would be faster for me to get out and catch a train. I had no problem with that so long as he dropped me off by a station. Any station, really, since they all connect eventually. We made informal plans to get together tomorrow and I said I'd invite Scott as well. To sum up: I had a lot of fun, drank a lot, saw some incredible sights, but driving in Japan is teh SUCK.

Whew! Either I need to type faster or do less!


つづく... (Click here to read more)

Thursday, September 01, 2005

Round and Round 

Thursdays are my lightest days of the week. I only have two Japanese classes in the morning and nothing in the afternoon. Yet I kept myself quite busy outside the classroom today and had a bit of fun along the way. I also found myself frustrated by yet another difference between here and back home. I guess every day is going to have ups and downs like this.


Rather than go house to house, Japanese garbage is collected via neighborhood collection points like this one.


Cigarette vending machines are common but with a catch: they shut down 11PM to 5AM. Check out those awesome prices!


I was up early and off to the Hirakata city station this morning to complete my homework assignment for my Justice class. I told you it would make you laugh, so here it is: I had to take my picture at a print club machine. While these machines are uncommon in the States they are very popular here. However, I had yet to see a single one anywhere in my travels around Hirakata. I figured the best place to go to find one would be at the station and just look for a busy place schoolgirls might hang out.

My first thought was to try the VIVRE department store. I had not been to this particular VIVRE but I remembered the one in Ishinomaki was like a mall unto itself and it was teeming with teenagers. Sadly, the Hirakata branch was closed when I visited at 9AM. I headed back for the station to check out a building marked on my map as "Amusement Center." The building looked quite from the outside but the floor chart indicated some kind of arcade on the fifth floor. Sure enough, when I entered the stairwell I could hear the loud music from upstairs.


Heading up the stairs I spotted this amusing example of Engrish

As I approached the fifth floor I was disappointed. The games were in there all right but the entrance was roped and taped off. I don't know if they were under construction or if that's just how they close for the night, but everything about it said "go away." If that wasn't clear enough, as I reached the top step an alarm went off and a light turned on, apparently part of a motion detection system. No need to wait for the translation, I left immediately!

Back on the streets, I had one more idea. I had been to an arcade last week in this area and if they were open (it was 9:30 by now) they would certainly have two or three print club machines. Sure enough, they were open and they did have three such machines! They all charged the same price, 400 Yen, so I picked one at random, lifted the heavy curtain and walked inside.

If you have an image of a American photobooth, forget it. These things are designed with squealing teenage girls in mind. There's enough space inside to hold four or five schoolgirls at once. I set my bag down, put in my money and began navigating the on-screen menu. I didn't have any idea which options were the best, but somehow I was given a choice of three backgrounds (from a larger selection). I picked snow, autumn, and the Pyramids. Each background was photographed twice. I did my best to strike amusing poses but I had to keep my knees bent in order to stay in the shot; it seems I'm taller than the average print club customer (Japan is great for my self-esteem in that lone aspect).

Once the shots were done, I had to go around the booth to another screen where I could draw or write over the pictures. I tried my hand at it but I think I pressed the "done" button prematurely. Then the pictures were being prepared and it took a noticeably long time; I think I even had to watch a commercial first? Maybe it was just explaining the process to me and I couldn't understand. Whatever I did, it worked, and the results are visible below.


There's something very surreal about photographing a photograph.

I had another breakfast at the station's Yoshinoya then I returned to campus to do my e-mail business before class began at 11. In the computer room I found myself next to a young lady from both of my Japanese language classes (and I think one other class as well). She had actually introduced herself to me yesterday when she realized that we were seeing each other a lot. I remember I was a little gruff at the time but for the life of me I can't remember why. I think when I'm sitting down in class I enter a certain frame of mind where "friendly banter" does not compute. Believe it or not, I have to concentrate really hard to appear normal to other people; conversation simply does not come naturally to me and any distractions are terminal to the process.

Yet I digress. In the computer room, we were able to converse and somehow the subject of exercise came up. I made it clear I was going to exercise after class since I had the afternoon free. She said she was looking for someone to exercise with so she asked me to check it out and get back to her about it. She then asked me to e-mail her my information so she could contact me (a wise idea, since we were both sitting at computers). Minutes later, we were in class together. So I'm not sure how it all happened but I may have myself a workout partner.

Spoken Japanese came first where we continued our review. I think we have a test on this next week. Then came Written Japanese and I'm starting to really notice the difference. Aural and oral skills simply aren't used much in the Writing class, it's almost all studying or writing kanji so class is on the quiet side. At one point the teacher held up some signs with simple Japanese words on them. Most of the class knew them all but I think I went the extra mile when I identified 仕事 (shigoto) even though the teacher was holding it upside-down and backwards. This prompted a "You're good" remark from the girl next to me (she is different from the other girls I have mentioned previously). As with most compliments I didn't know what to say other than "Thank You." I guess the teacher picked up on my eagerness so she asked me to write something on the board: 新しい (atarashii). I don't like to show off (maybe a little ^_^) so this felt a little awkward to be put on the spot. I get the sense that some of the other students feel this class is moving too fast or the teacher isn't actively "teaching" enough. For me, it's right up my alley. Give me kanji and give them to me quickly!


What's for lunch? Take a look! Some are actual dishes, some are merely plastic models.

After class it was time for another cheap lunch. I ended up having lunch with the same girl from yesterday and I'm pretty sure her name is Megan but she's not the same as the other girl named Megan who I didn't see at all today. We were joined by some guy I've never met before and I forgot to ask his name. The two of them traded homestay family stories which I don't have since I'm in the dorms. When we left, she mentioned that she was going to the gym as well so I told her I'd see her there.


With an election coming up soon campaigns are hitting the streets in vehicles like this.

After an excrutiatingly warm walk home I hit the gym for the first time. Guess what? It's totally crazy and different in there! Firstly, there's no towels. There is a water fountain but no spout to fill a bottle. The machines are all unlike any machines I've seen before and most of them operate on hydraulics rather than lifting weights. The hydraulics only seem to have six settings so what I do when the maximum level isn't enough? Megan was there but she seemed in the midst of her own workout thing so we didn't really talk much. There were a few hand weights so I did get in a semi-decent workout but the whole experience was...dare I say it...frustrating. >_< It would have been really nice to just pick my workout up where I had left it but it seems I've got more adjustments to make here than I realized.

After the workout I tried to chill out back in the dorm for a while, keeping my attention busy so I wouldn't get hungry too early. As I found myself wasting time for the sake of wasting it I decided to just go out and start walking while the sun was still up. Furthermore, I walked in an entirely different direction than I had walked on previous food searches; I walked out of the dorm and turned left instead of right.


Some random views from my stroll.




A dirt park doesn't seem like much fun...

...but then I spotted a Super Fun Happy Slide!!! Sadly, it was locked shut. What's up with that?


My stroll took me through a kind of apartment complex that struck me as "lower" income. I don't want to say "low" because it seemed like there were plenty of cars parked there and some of them looked pretty nice even. As I walked I encountered a trio of young girls on bicycles who decided to approach me and say "Hello." I greeted them in turn and this led to a quasi-conversation. I demonstrated some limited Japanese by explaining that I was going for a walk to find a restaurant. This impressed them. They also took notice of the Nike swoosh on my T-shirt. Internally I felt like a corporate sap but I smiled politely.

Then came the big request: 英語を教えてください ("Please teach [us] English")! Now I was in a spot. I just started looking around and naming nouns that I saw, hoping I could teach them the English equivalent. But they already knew everything! Car, dog, head, eyes, hat, cat...these kids were not novices. You certainly wouldn't get similar results in an American schoolyard! I think the only word they didn't recognize was "bicycle." After a few minutes of this (which attracted a few other passers-by) I politely asked if I could go eat dinner. One sped away on her bike but I did capture the other two with my camera.


Is that "peace" or "victory?" The world may never know...

After strolling out towards a highway and turning down what seemed a major road I passed several small, closed izakaya. I was getting a little disappointed until I saw a big, friendly looking restaurant on the corner.



It was a conveyor belt sushi restaurant! These places are fun because they're cheap and you don't need to say much at all...just grab the food right off the belt! I saw a lot of crazy things pass in front of me: corn, sweet potatoes, various cakes and sweets, a big piece of melon, even a hot dog on a stick (I had one). The strangest had to be (wait for it) horse meat! Ewww...I know, that's a little creepy. Too creepy for me to try, in fact. Maybe next time! I leave you tonight with a still-life photo of sushi in motion.




つづく... (Click here to read more)

Wednesday, August 31, 2005

The Circle is Complete 

I just realized that I haven't told anyone about my new roommate but there's a good reason for that. I hardly ever see him! His name is Jeremy and he's from Seattle. He moved in almost immediately after Gustav moved out so I never really had the room "to myself." However, of the three nights we've shared the room thus far, he's only slept here once! I'm not sure where else he could be going but he's out more often than in. We haven't had a chance yet to discuss my snoring (as I expected, he was never "informed" by the school) but when I told him about it he seemed unfazed. He offered to sleep "with headphones on" so he seems pretty cool about the whole thing. Certainly, in our conversations he has been a hundred times more friendly than that other guy. Obviously this is a black eye for the entire population of Sweden. USA! USA!

The weather was much nicer today with less humidity and clearer skies, so I took a few more shots around campus.






This is some kind of solar energy collector but I do not know where (or how) the energy is used.


See? Here's the display panel underneath the glass. Pretty sunny but not too sunny, just how I like it!


By this point I've attended all of my classes. I had hoped to run into Megan, the cute girl with tattoo who I actually introduced myself to the other day. Sadly, we do not have any classes in common so it looks like it's up to me to talk to her again. In any case, there are a lot of other people to meet out there so I shouldn't get hung up on one tattoo...er, person.

This morning was my first Written Japanese class and it seemed to start in familiar territory. I recognized every single kanji on the review sheet. Indeed, I actually know many more characters than the ones listed but I don't think I need to skip ahead a level. There's always next semester if I want to be daring. We had to write an impromptu "self introduction" which I think I managed to do nicely. My handwriting is rusty because most of my Japanese use this summer has been electronic. For those who don't know, typing something like 「地震雷火事親父」* is a hell of a lot easier than writing it!

After the written class I had to eat lunch because my next three periods were all full; this only happens on Wednesdays. While checking out the food samples of the day (remind me to photograph these things so you can understand what I'm talking about) I ran into a girl from my Japanese classes. The make-up of the writing and speaking classes is virtually identical, so much so that I again question the need for two separate classes...but I digress. We ended up having lunch together in the cafeteria (she asked if she could join me). Sadly, I've forgotten her name and once you pass a certain point in the conversation it seems very rude to ask, so I still don't know what it is. I'll just have to pay close attention to tomorrow's roll call!

Eating with another person is always better than eating alone; furthermore, eating with a member of the opposite sex always makes me feel cooler than eating with a guy (save for a really close friend). She had a lot of stories about training her pets and life back home in Oregon which wasn't always amusing but I'd like to think I maintained enough eye contact to feign interest. That must sound like a horrible thing to say, especially from a loser like me who should be grateful to eat lunch with anyone but I only have room for the truth here on the blog! Maybe next time I'll do all the talking and she can feign interest listening to me prattle on about my hometown.

The only other new class (the last "new" one in fact) was The Struggle For Justice. The professor was the same man who delivered, IMHO, the only speech worth listening to at last week's opening ceremonies. So get this: he starts off his class by delivering closing arguments from a real-life murder trial he once prosecuted! No introduction mind you, he just starts talking to us like we're the jury. This guy is one amazing public speaker! After he delivered both sides he asked us to vote on whether or not the criminal in question should be executed. I was among the miniscule minority who said Yes. This was followed by a discussion of why we voted Yes or No. Long story short: his class seems really cool. You'll laugh when you hear about our first homework assignment!

I found a note in my mailbox asking me to come to the Int'l Ed. Office. It seems that I have to open a bank account because my school is going to be sending me some kind of stipend? This is news to me but that's pretty good news! It makes sense given that I'm paying for some Japanese student to live in the dorm at UAlbany and eat three square (albeit completely disgusting) meals a day, so I should be receiving some kind of meal allowance on this end. Especially considering I wasn't placed with a family who would have been feeding me twice a day!

Speaking of the dorms, shortly after returning home this evening we had our first monthly meeting here. Guess what we talked about? The goddamn rules and regulations! AGAIN! I am so fucking tired of hearing about this crap. I hate dorm life, I just hate it. You waste so much time in meetings where you're told how to behave. I think it's extra-frustrating for me because I'm a full-fledged adult here. I can only imagine what the Australian guy thinks...he's a reporter on leave or something and he's definitely older than me. He probably has a family back home. Can you imagine telling an Australian man he can't drink in his room? I sure as hell can't.

*sigh* Fear not, I'm not cracking. I'm just adjusting. Eventually all this will become normal, I'll get drunk in public instead of in private and I should fare pretty well in all my classes. And on that note, I'm hungry!

*this proverb translates to "earthquakes, thunder, fires, fathers." It compares fathers with other things which are generally feared. A few years ago I wrote this on some posterboard, framed it, and gave it my Dad. Best. Present. EVER!


つづく... (Click here to read more)

Tuesday, August 30, 2005

雨の日 (Rainy Day) 

After a full week of heat and humidity and a typhoon-threat that never materialized (at least not in this area) it finally rained today. I thought it would bring a relief to the humidity but somehow it is still uncomfortably sticky! I really need the weather to chill the fuck out soon; I think the nasty climate only adds to my discomfort in this new place.



This fountain is at the center of the KG campus. That's the only photo of the day, sorry.

Today I had my first Spoken Japanese class. My teacher is a man which lifts a slight burden from me. In the past, I have always developed a weird little crush on any female Japanese instructors I have had. Indeed, I fear it once became obvious and scared one poor lady half to death. Anyway, this guy is from Sapporo and he showed some pictures from something that looks very cool: the annual Snow Festival held every February. I think I just might have to take a trip out there to see it, although it won't be cheap. Sapporo is over 700 miles from here!

But I digress; the class went pretty smoothly and we seem to pick up about where I left off which is a good thing. He gave us a list of "review" materials and I recognize at least 90% of everything on the list. The rest of the class didn't seem terribly enthused about speaking Japanese but few have my ebullient interest in the subject. Fun fact: the lone KG student from South Africa is in my class.

The school books we have to purchase are mercifully inexpensive. Most of the materials are simple reproductions of other materials bound together. These typically go for 1000 Yen. The texts for my Spoken Japanese class were about 4500 Yen which isn't bad for two new books. They don't go for "used" around here and the occasional student offer to sell old books is quickly met. I still have two more classes to attend but at this rate the total expenditure should come in under 10,000 Yen (about $90). Any U.S. college student will tell you that's a bargain beyond bargains.

Likewise, the school lunches here are pleasantly priced. I typically eat for less than 500 Yen and that always includes a bowl of miso soup. I'm glad to have broken my soda habit or I'd be wasting hundreds of Yen a day on that crap; instead, I usually go for water or tea, depending on what I'm offered for free. I've never had to pay for water but if I can drink free tea, I'll always take it. I certainly got a few stares today when I declined to accept the bowl of rice that accompanied the daily "club lunch" special. My thinking is this: if the meal is something served over rice, then I'll just eat it. When rice is a dish on the side, I should pass.

Naturally, I didn't know how to explain this to the staff. In fact, when I didn't take the rice they tried to offer me a bun instead. I do love the perpetually polite counterpersons and waiters here, especially since tips are not accepted which I think is one of life's great ironies. If anyone should be automatically tipped, it's the service people of Japan.

After lunch I had my second elective, a class about views of Japan in Western film and literature. It's actually taught by the same guy who's teaching my Media class and the subjects are really quite similar. The key difference here is that the media class is focused on Japanese events in Japan as presented to the public while this class is focused on non-Japanese portrayals of Japan. Our first screening was the episode of The Simpsons where they all go to Japan. It contains a very underrated gag (I think only three people laughed at it):

Marge: Homey, you'll like Japan! You loved Rashômon!
Homer: That's not how I remember it.

Anyway, I'm avoiding the point of this story. In discussing how a group of people can be warped by unfair portrayal, the professor mentioned something from his childhood in Salt Lake City. He noted that nobody back home acknowledged any kind of discrimination against women because "we put our women on a pedestal." This is, as he pointed out, just as discriminatory as any other method of separation. When he said this I immediately* thought back to my behavior this summer and my friendship with Hyde. It suddenly occurred to me that I hadn't been a very good friend by treating her the way I did, even if my motivation was entirely good willed (which it was). Once I decided I was smitten with her I immediately put her on a kind of pedestal of my own design and looked up to her. This made her extremely uncomfortable around me and for good reason. I had no right to do that and I don't think I ever apologized for it in person. So Hyde, if you read this, I'm sorry about that. Honestly, I never realized what I was doing until today.

Other than that epiphany it's been a very quiet day. I bought an umbrella so I could walk home in relative comfort. I haven't gotten to the gym yet because it's only open 9-4 during the "summer break." I suppose I'll grab some dinner soon but I'm not looking forward to going outside again. Perhaps it's time to explore the local delivery services? I won't have to tip the driver, after all!

*You see why I'm such a lousy student? Whenever a teacher mentions anything that applies to me personally, I launch into an introspective no-man's land and tune out the rest of the lecture. Silly Dan, daydreams are for kids!


つづく... (Click here to read more)

Monday, August 29, 2005

Facing Fear 

Note to readers: I am now experimenting with a new post format to reduce loading times on the main page. If it works, only a summary of each post will appear here. You'll have to read the rest on a separate page.

I think you learn a lot about yourself whenever you travel abroad. Perhaps it's the feeling of isolation, maybe it's the endless introspection or it could just be a matter of finding out how you react to being out of place. I think my biggest problem right now is a pervasive feeling of helplessness, and the more I think about it the more I realize that helplessness is very high on my list of feelings that I dread. Indeed, it might very well be my greatest fear, especially if you connect it to my fear of death which I think is basically the same thing. I am simply terrified of being unable to control my life.

Alright, that's a pretty heavy way to start a daily post so we'll get back to that business in a moment. Last night I went ahead and had another random dinner adventure. I walked north from the neighborhood of the dorms and simply stopped in a place that looked good. Again, I crossed the Hotani River (shots below) only this time I was really hungry and didn't want to walk as far as I did last week. I saw one place that looked pretty cool but they weren't open for another half hour. Not content to wait, I found another place across the street. It was very small and it seemed like a "Mom and Pop" kind of joint. I spent a few minutes studying the food displayed in the window (restaurants commonly have models of the food they serve) and picked something that looked like it might be good. It was called マーボ丼 (Mâbo-don) and it was similar to Mapodofu only not very spicy and there was rice. It seems I can't escape eating rice here so I've stopped trying. Anyway, it was quite tasty and a fair price too.


Hotani River, facing east...


...and west.


Today was the first day of classes but that didn't include Japanese classes which are all in the morning. So I took advantage of this time to head down to Hirakata City Hall to register as a Resident Alien. Once completed, I will receive what people jokingly refer to as a "Gaijin card." To get there, I took a bus to the train station and took a short walk south through Oka Higashi Central Park. Having plenty of time to kill, I took a few pictures along the way.


Hirakata City Station is the unofficial "center" of town.


This object features the name of the park. Could it be a monument? Or just art?


I suppose that qualifies as art.


This plaque notes the location of a time capsule, perhaps to be opened in fifty years?


This was standing above the time capsule plaque. Maybe the capsule is in there.


I got a little frustrated when I got to City Hall because I had no idea where to deliver the necessary paperwork and the building seemed pretty big. I got pissed off that this important task was just left up to me to do alone while I had to sit through endless orientation meetings last week that were completely non-essential. Couldn't there have been some kind of coordination effort to streamline this process?After a few minutes of wandering I figured out that I wasn't at the front door and walked around the building until I found it. Once there,I saw clear English-language signs indicating where to take the paperwork.

The Hirakata City Hall is kind of like the DMV in that you get a numbered ticket and wait to be processed by a clerk. This operation was much nicer though as my the ticket-dispensing machine clearly indicated how many people had been issued tickets for this service. It was just one; me! So I was called forward right away and everything went smoothly. However, it seems I won't get the card until October! So much for Japanese efficiency.

I still had hours of nothing to do so I went to the Yoshinoya inside the train station before taking the bus to campus. Today was the first day of sign-up for the "Experience Japan" program where you go on local trips in the area with other KG students. Unfortunately, the only way to sign-up is in a folder at the International Studies Office. By putting all the sheets in one folder, I guess it makes it easier to keep track of things but it also means that only one person can use it at a time. For some reason, whenever a girl was using the book she sat there for 10-15 minutes reading the goddamn thing! Guys would sit down, sign up and leave but ladies...not even close. What's up with that? Anyway, I signed up for a trip to Kobe this Saturday. The list was pretty long though so I'm not sure if I'll make the cut. If not, I'm sure I'll find my own entertainment. I've been doing lots of research into sights to see in this area (and beyond).

After spending an hour in that process (seriously ladies, what's the deal?) I checked my class schedule. It seems I'm in Level 2 of Japanese which sounds about right. I was worried my dismal performance on the placement test would land me back at square one but I guess those worries were unfounded. My week looks something like this: Spoken Japanese meets everyday, Written Japanese (they are separate somehow) meets MWTh and my electives are scattered over MTuWF. So no day is particularly loaded and I have Thursday afternoons off. Not a bad deal, really.

Schedule in hand, I killed some more time in the nearby computer lab. Midday here is late-night back in New York so I always like to check my e-mail around this time. Sometimes a message I wrote in the morning (NY evening) may have gotten a response and if I reply when people are still awake, I might even get another response while I'm in the lab. If I wait until my evening, it's early morning in New York and I know none of you are up. Got all that? Good.

On my way out of the lab, I spotted the girl with the tattoo from last week's first orientation again. I had been seeing her around campus at various times and each time I wanted to say something but I invariably missed my opportunity. This time, she was sitting down (ALONE) eating a sandwich so I felt like it was the right time. I was so scared that I felt my heart race. Can you imagine how absurd all this is? I'm not asking her to marry me, I'm just trying to introduce myself! This is why I don't go on many dates. I'm such a tool...whatever, I went to the water fountain to cool down (literally and figuratively). Once composed (or as close as I could get) I walked over and sat down across from her.

Unlike my friend Hyde, I cannot recall conversations in great detail. I'm sure I excused myself for being forward and told her I found her tattoo fascinating and I wanted to know more about it. To my welcome surprise, she was a very sweet, friendly person who happily told me all about it. She had wanted to get wings on her back but she didn't want it to be overly feminine. Inspired by a manga character, she made some photocopies and showed them to a tattoo artist to develop her ideas. This "mechanical" design was the result of weeks of discussion and brainstorming and the actual work took about four hours. Some have suggested she color the wings but she thought that wasn't necessary (I agree). Oh yeah, her name is Megan and she's from North Carolina. Now that I've met her, maybe I can actually talk to her again. Is that too much to ask?

I had lunch in the cafeteria and ran into some familiar faces from UAlbany. It was somewhat comforting to run into a group of people I know even if I don't feel all that close to them. I suppose at the very least our common experiences give us some kind of connection which puts me at ease. I'd hesitate to call them "friends" but at the same time I do value their company on a personal level.


They do have pidgeons in Japan but Hirakata seems to have a lot of crows.

After eating lunch and killing some more time reading travel brochures (most of which I got at the Shin-Osaka station this weekend) it was finally time to go to my first class: Making News in Japan. It's part "current events," part media analysis. No papers to write (thank sweet Jesus almighty) so I feel good about my ability to succeed. After all, I already make it a habit of keeping up with the news and I'm highly critical of news sources so this should be right up my alley.

Class ended and I was done for the day. I thought I might go back and do some laundry (it has been almost a week) but I realized I didn't have any detergent. Furthermore, I didn't even know what the Japanese called "detergent" in their language! All I knew was the word for "laundry," sentaku (洗濯). I walked into a nearby 7-Eleven (do you know how popular they are here?) and did some investigating. I picked up what looked like detergent even though I couldn't really read the label. There was a drawing of washing clothes and I could see the 洗 character which certainly signifies "washing" so I picked it up. At the counter, I mumbled something about sentaku to the clerk, trying to put it in question form but not knowing how. She instead directed me to a tub of powder next to the item I had picked up. Trusting her, I bought the powder instead.


Truth in Advertising: How can you deny that Suntory Boss is the boss of them all?

I headed for home but also realized that I should try and go grocery shopping. Now that I'm officially checked-in to my room, I can access the kitchen in the dorm which means I can buy and store food to prepare my own meals. I have no real experience in these matters (I practically lived on take-out when I lived alone) but I thought my summer experience of eating cold cuts and dipping vegetables might somehow have prepared me to finally eat like an adult. No such luck! For you see, I still can't speak Japanese! The supermarket was completely nonsensical to me. Sure, I know basic vocabulary like gyûnyû ("milk" 牛乳) and tamago ("egg" 卵) but food shopping is more than sputtering sentence fragments. Imagine you only know the word "milk" and you walked into a typical dairy aisle. Which container would you grab? How could you know you were buying milk and not "buttermilk" or "soy milk" or even "half & half?" You wouldn't know, nor could you ask anyone. So I gave up and walked home instead.

Finally, we get back to the issue of helplessness (scroll up if you forgot where I started this idea). That's the real kicker here in Japan. It's not culture shock, it's not even just a language barrier (although it's huge), it's me feeling helpless and not knowing what to do. And I hate that feeling because it scares me.

What now? Well, in the immediate future I'm going to go out and find someplace to eat dinner. In the larger picture I've got lots more classes to go to and hopefully I'll talk to Megan again. Because the upside of all this fear crap is that fear can be beaten if you just stand up to it. I don't have to be afraid of talking to girls or going shopping or even dying so long as I know I'm doing everything I can to deal with these situations.

So that's the lesson of today, I think. I leave you with a photo of a little visitor who appeared in the computer room while I was typing this mammoth post.




つづく... (Click here to read more)

Sunday, August 28, 2005

Sticking With It 

It's been a rocky week so far but I'm doing my best to adjust to the challenges I'm facing, both expected and unexpected. I knew there would be language issues and culture shock but who could have anticipated computer and roommate problems? I could have spent yesterday in my room crying in the fetal position but instead I made a plan to meet with Scott in Osaka.

The first step in this endeavor was to figure out exactly how the hell to get from here to there. The maps provided by the university weren't much help as they only gave me an idea of the service on the local Keihan line. In order to figure out how to navigate the city of Osaka I turned to my old friend, Wikipedia. I was able to use their scores of data to plan out my entire route. Hooray me!



I took a bus (which I finally think I've mastered) to the Hirakata City station where I bought a ticket for Osaka, specifically Yodoyabashi. As you can see, many of the signs in the railway system feature English to assist foreign travelers. Obviously it helps to read the Japanese as well but in theory a total novice could navigate their way across the country unassisted. Once at Yodoyabashi, I transferred to the Midosuji subway line in order to travel inside the city.


In an effort to combat chikan, some trains feature "Ladies Only" cars. The restriction only applies to rush hour.

In total, it took me about forty minutes to reach Shin-Osaka station, a major hub of the bullet train system in Japan. The station is quite large, almost like an airport, with lots of shops, restaurants and even a capsule hotel for weary travelers. As luck would have it, this was also the closest train station to Scott's apartment. Since I was early, I took my time strolling around the station and the immediate vicinity. Let's look at a few pictures of what I saw:




This small monument honors Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a legendary figure from Japanese history who is fondly remembered in these parts.


A bunraku puppet featured in the same display. Osaka is considered the birthplace of the art form.


Who knew I was such a star that I had my own bookstore?


I just thought this was a hilarious name for an eatery.


After some minimal confusion over where to meet, Scott and I found each other and walked back to his apartment building which was extremely close to the station. Very convenient! The plan was for Scott's girlfriend Emi to join us later in the evening and prepare some okonomiyaki for dinner. In the meantime, Scott and I would hang out, stroll around town and buy the necessary ingredients. Sounded like a fine plan to me! Okonomiyaki is quite popular in this area and I have no problem with that.


Scott demonstrates the fingerprint ID system at his building. Pretty cool!


A view of the Yodokawa ward from Scott's apartment. You can see the Shin Osaka station past those trees.


Similar to a cabin on a cruise ship, the bathroom is less of a room than it is a sealed unit inside the apartment. I suppose that helps cut down on leaks.


Scott and I took a little walk around his neighborhood. It seemed pretty quiet but it was a Saturday afternoon. I suppose it's like Manhattan in that some parts of the city are just empty on weekends because no one's at work. We went to a nearby Vodafone sales office to investigate what I had to do to get a mobile phone. The first thing, it seems, is to get my "alien registration card" which makes sense. Obviously they don't want to hand me a phone and then discover that I'm just a tourist and I'm leaving the country never to be seen or heard from again. Scott spent a few more minutes in the store inquiring about what it would take for him to "upgrade" to a newer phone. Again, I was impressed by his Japanese skills although he told me he found it frustrating to try and discuss matters like this. I'd say that's par for the course when it comes to shopping for mobile phones, regardless of the language!



It didn't take us long to pass an arcade so we popped in for a look around. We were actually on the way out when I spotted an old favorite: 太鼓の達人 (known in the U.S. as Taiko: Drum Master). I first encountered this game on my last trip to Japan and I found it instantly charming. The premise is simple, just follow the on-screen prompts and beat the drum. I played on the "Easy" level and got to play three tunes. The first was a random Japanese tune that I picked by accident. The second was a Japanese-language version of the Mickey Mouse song. For the record, the Japanese just say the name "Mickey Mouse" in rhythm with the music instead of spelling out M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E. Lastly, (and what better way to follow Mickey Mouse) I picked Britney Spears' "Toxic." If you think it's strange to play American pop music on a computer simulation of a traditional Japanese instrument then you've obviously never been to Japan before.

After achieving an incredible high score and entering my name, Scott and I hit a market to buy the necessary vegetables for dinner. Even more necessary was my need for a beer or two. Individual cans are commonly sold in Japanese stores (not just convenience stores like here in the U.S.) and they're a little pricey. I was eager to try Yebisu beer, a very popular brand here that I've never seen back home. One can cost 220 Yen but I had to taste it, if only once. In case it sucked I also picked up a tall can of Kirin Ichiban.

With groceries and alcohol in hand, Scott and I returned to his apartment. I was very tired and sweaty so I practically collapsed into his only chair. This weather really does a number on my body as heat, sweat and friction add up to some pretty painful chafing if you know what I mean.

Emi dropped in around 6 and was very pleasant. She speaks English quite well but I was more impressed with her Japanese. Unlike most Japanese people I encounter outside of a classroom, Emi spoke clearly and deliberately, making it easy for even a dolt like me to understand her. I greatly appreciated this as it was reassuring that I do have some knowledge of what I'm doing over here. She was also very sweet by "monogramming" my dinner. It's a little sloppy but you can see that she wrote ダン (Dan).


Mayonnaise-calligraphy is an under-appreciated art in this world.

While we ate we watched an old Japanese film Scott has been talking about for years: Daimajin. The plot is very simple: giant stone god rampages to protect its followers. It's better than it sounds although I couldn't help but get confused at certain points. First, the people pray to keep Daimajin appeased so he does not destroy them. Then they rely on him to protect them from evil, but then he's kind of evil himself? And why doesn't he lift a finger to help anybody until his own statue is threatened? Not a very attentive deity in my opinion.

After that film was over Scott suggested we watch one of the others (it's a trilogy) but instead we opted for a little Japanese TV. We happened to stumble across Explorers which was being broadcast in English (apparently Japanese was available on SAP). If you don't remember the film, it's about three young boys who end up exploring their sexuality...I mean, outer space. Two of three young actors would become quite famous. Scott and I had an issue with the third boy. Scott maintained that it was Steven Dorff which means that all three kids grew up to be famous. I insisted that he was a nobody and that only the other two made it. Eventually our contention led to a wager of one beer. We watched until the end credits and the third boy was...nobody! A winner is me! Lesson learned, Scott; never wager with me when it comes to film.

Scott had offered to let me spend the night at his place but it turned out there was a problem: my snoring! This had come up during my last visit to his apartment four years ago. Back then, I simply moved to another room. This time, there was no such option so I didn't get much sleep. Whenever I started snoring Scott had to nudge me. I can't blame him, of course, since it's his apartment. Also, I was sleeping on the floor without much padding. I wonder if my snoring is somehow worse over here? I've had countless roommates over the years and none of them have ever made an issue of my snoring until now.

The next morning we took our time returning to the station. Scott had wanted to check out a local youth hostel in a new building across the street. It looked like a hotel, a far cry from my seedy image of six beds crammed into a room! We also happened to meet up with a young Japanese man staying in the hostel who put on a little musical show for us.


Be honest: This is probably the last image you expected to see from Japan!

After a pleasant interlude and a "Morning Curry Set" at the station, Scott and I parted ways and I returned to Hirakata. Today was check-in day at the dorm which means I finally have a key to the door. It seems my roommate problem will be resolved as such: I'm getting a new roommate! I don't know who he is but his name sounds American. I asked the staff if he knew about my snoring and they said "he will be informed."

Guess I'll take it easy today in my (temporarily) private room.


つづく... (Click here to read more)

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