Friday, September 23, 2005
The A-Bomb (not what you're thinking)
Well, last night turned into a very late night out - the latest night out I've had here in Japan. A big part of it was the lack of late trains here in Japan. All trains, even the intra-city subways, stop running around midnight. Funny how just yesterday I was bemoaning how the late trains in NY weren't late enough. Guess I should really appreciate them more?
First snail I've seen in a long time that wasn't served to me on a plate.
A few minutes after yesterday's novelty post, I went on a little cultural expedition of sorts. Foreign students like myself are encouraged to join one of the myriad of student clubs here at KG. Of course, none of the clubs were active before the Japanese students started showing up last week so I've had to wait nearly a month to explore my options. Since I seem to have an affinity for kanji and I yearn to express myself artistically, I figured I would check out the Shodô (書道) club, a.k.a. Japanese calligraphy.
Since it's a "traditional" art form, we practiced in a Japanese-style room (和室, washitsu) and sat on the floor. Ideally, shodô should be done while sitting in the seiza (正座) position but since that hurts like hell and takes a lot of practice to do right anyway they said it didn't matter. I suppose I could try practicing that in my dorm room sometimes, it would do me some good to be a little more flexible.
Here's the results of my first day. My first ever attempt is in the lower-left hand corner. Pretty skinny and ugly; as they put it, "more fatter is better." One of the girls in the club then painted an example for me to follow, seen directly above it. I then painted the one to the right and then the one below it. Some improvement, I would say, so not bad for an hour's work. You may notice that's the same character seen in the feitclub.com banner seen on every page of my website. It can be translated as "fight." Get it? It's just another part of my wicked pun of a sitename.
The artist poses with his best work of the day
I returned to dorm to prepare for an evening on the streets of Osaka. Since today was a national holiday, Autumnal Equinox Day (秋分の日, shûbun no hi), I felt it was in my best interest to start partying on Thursday night. Scott agreed, and we made a plan to meet in Shinsaibashi (心斎橋). I invited the aforementioned girl next to me in the computer room to join us but she eventually said she had other plans. I'll ask her again though, I think she's looking to party.
The best part of this story is where I had planned to go. I had heard some incidental information in Japanese class yesterday about someplace called "Club Absinthe." Hearing the A-word caught my attention: it's illegal in the States although I did have some at a New Year's party two years ago. This was the first I had heard of it since and I had no idea it was legal here in Japan. I asked if that was "just a name" or if they really served the good shit. She said she thought they did but she heard about it from a friend and had yet to go. Probing for more info (and also wondering if we might go together or something) I asked her where it was. She again said her friend knew but told me that her friend heard about it from a professor. Get this: it was one of my professors, the same cool guy who gave the only speech worth hearing at the Opening Ceremonies last month!
Since I knew him from class I figured it would be perfectly acceptable to knock on his office door and ask him about the club. The lights were out but he was in there, apparently about to rest up before his first class of the day. I hesitated to knock but I figured there was no harm in it; he wasn't asleep yet and invited me in. I must say, the professors' offices here are really nice. Lots of space, a private sink and obviously the A/C is under their complete control. His office was fucking freezing and I love that. He also had a bad-ass poster of some Japanese movie starring Ken Takakura. I swear, this guy is in the running for coolest teacher worldwide. He drew me a map of how to get to the place from Shinsaibashi station and also told me all about the owner, a Russian guy named Demitri who married a Japanese woman he met in Israel. Of course, they serve Middle Eastern food, an unexpected bonus! I thought I'd not find any here at all and I grew quite fond of it this summer.
Map in hand, I met Scott down in Shinsaibashi. Scott apparently used to live in this area so he was very familiar with all the streets and such, although he didn't know this particular place. He also had no idea what Absinthe was. He'd find out soon enough! The map worked perfectly. First, you walk down Midosuji St. (御堂筋通り) and turn right between the "OPA" building and Hotel Nikko. Follow this street until it comes to a T-stop. Turn right and look to the right.
Standing on Midosuji St. looking right. That's OPA on the left.
There she is! Of course, the sign is green.
It's actually called "Cafe Absinthe" but otherwise his directions were perfect. Sitting inside there was just like being back in New York, only cooler in a way. There were more foreigners inside than Japanese and the staff spoke to us in English, a nice change of pace. The menu was clear and easy to read too, with everything clearly written in both languages. Everyone was chill as fuck and nearly everyone was drinking or smoking (some both, can't do that in NY anymore). I ended up ordering a falafel sandwich which was a little pricey but not outrageously so. The beers were a little steep though, with the cheapest drafts at 600 Yen. My falafel was, of course, uniquely Japanese. Instead of a big burrito-like wrapped sandwich, I got four falafels individually placed in small pieces of pita bread with a dipping sauce and small pieces of vegetables on the side. Very tasty!
Alright, enough bullshit about the food: it's absinthe time. With two beers in my stomach and the last train and my wallet on my mind, I opted to try the basic, cheapest brand they offered (but still 800 Yen). Just one glass this one time. There was an amusing little ritual where the absinthe was poured over a sugar cube into a glass and then the cube was burned. Once the fire went out, I was told to pour water over the cube into the glass and drink the solution.
Fire GOOD!
If you've never drank absinthe, it tastes absolutely awful. The only flavor I can compare it to is licorice which I can't stand either. If you have drank it before and you know how it can make you feel, I'm afraid my story may disappoint you. Maybe it was just the brand or the fact that I only had one glass but I didn't get any of the funny effects. It was merely one stiff-ass drink, not that there's anything wrong with that! However, the prices were a little steep for us to make a night of it so Scott and I decided to leave. As I summoned the check, who should show up but my professor! I said hi and thanked him again, introduced him to Scott as he introduced me to all his friends. Two of them had actually been sitting next to us the entire evening. I wanted to kick myself for leaving as my professor was coming since I've never ever had an opportunity to hang out with an authority figure like that, but I was there with Scott and it would have been really awkward for him, I think. Maybe next time (and there will be a next time, I promise).
We took a stroll down a few side streets and reached a small park full of young people out for the evening. Since neither of us were tipsy enough, we opted to buy some beer in a nearby convenience store and drink in the park. That's perfectly legal here in Japan, by the way, another reason things are a little cooler here than in New York. Scott bought one first before I realized that was OK, then I went in for one of my own. In the store I made eye contact with a American guy wearing a Red Sox hat; we exchanged a "what's up" head nod. When I came out, I was surprised to see he and his Japanese (male) friend were chatting with Scott. We all ended up hanging out in the park for an hour or so, and eventually one of their Japanese (female) friends came by and joined us. It turns out both Japanese folks were KG students, although the American was at a different university in the area.
Scott demonstrates an inexpensive way to have fun in Japan, conbini ("conveni[ence]") drinking.
Free dance show in the park that night! As wild as New York is, you don't often see people doing choreographed dances for fun in public. Panhandling, maybe...
From left to right, Tôru, Rob/Bob (forgot which but both sound right) and Asuka. Fun side note: Tôru actually asked me if I had "fucked anyone" yet at KG.
While we were hanging out, it came time for me to leave if I was to catch the last train. Since we were having fun, Scott suggested I skip it and just stay out with him and eventually crash at his place. I agreed. We left the park and our new friends behind to recover Scott's bike and start the long trek towards his home. Along the way we took advantage of Japan's liberal attitude towards public micturition. Scott wasn't sure if it's completely legal but no one seemed to care when we went in a dark street corner.
When we reached Scott's bike there was a minor logistical problem: he had one and I didn't, so our only option was for me to sit on the back while Scott pedaled. This is a common sight in Japan but it wasn't easy. First, I had to hold my feet off the ground which required a fair amount of leg strength. Second, there was enough space for me but it wasn't padded at all, so every bump felt like getting kicked in the nuts. Did you know that every paved intersection in Japan has ridges? I do now!
At one point we actually got stopped by a cop who didn't like what we were doing. He was more concerned that the bike might be stolen which is Japan's most common crime. Being foreigners, we obviously fit his description of "suspicious." However, our delay was negligible and he didn't even bother to ask for our papers. Indeed, I'm not even sure why he really stopped us.
Eventually we had to stop because I couldn't take all the bumping or the strain of holding my legs off the ground anymore. We made it all the way to Umeda which was still quite active despite the late hour. Scott locked his bike near a pedestrian bridge and we hit a nearby bar that Scott said "catered to foreigners." There were quite a few inside but it wasn't anything like the disparity we experienced in Cafe Absinthe. We each had one drink and then things got tricky. There was a cute Japanese girl sitting alone at the bar and Scott suggested I go talk to her. Naturally, I had a million reasons not to but they were all bullshit and I knew it. So I went to the bathroom first before approaching this complete stranger and trying to initiate conversation. Strictly speaking, I have never done anything like this in my entire life.
Oddly enough, I wasn't that nervous. Maybe it was the alcohol or maybe I was just starting to get used to the idea of meeting strangers. It was a moot point anyway; she simply wasn't interested. On Scott's suggestion, I tried to begin in English (something like "Would you like to talk?") since it was a foreigner bar and he assumed she was looking for one. She indicated that she didn't speak English. I tried a follow-up in Japanese (Hanashitai?) but she again passed on my offer to talk. No big deal, really; I'll probably never see her again so who cares.
We ended up meeting some people instead: a trio of girls from Morocco, a business-suit guy from New York and two British dudes. Everyone spoke English so the conversations came easily. I actually never drank another beer although I did smoke a few cigarettes; whenever one of the ladies pulled one out I offered to light it and got one in return. We ended up playing a casual game of darts using some machine. I have no idea how to play beyond throwing the darts towards the middle but no one really cared. One girl in particular was being very flirty, casually making contact with me whenever we passed one another. So I went ahead and flirted right back, touching her whenever she came near. Nothing dirty, mostly hands, arms, shoulders and the occasional waist. It felt liberating to finally be like those guys I always envied in bars, casually touching a complete stranger because we were both just having a good time.
Eventually Scott and I went back to his place; it was getting pretty late and we both tired. If I had been there alone or if I had my own place in Osaka, maybe I could have tried to initiate something else with that flirty girl. I don't know what, where or how, but I could have tried something. I probably should have tried to get her number but I didn't. So sue me. I had fun, and that's the point of that story. We taxied back to Scott's home and crashed. I actually slept fairly well this time and Scott said I didn't snore much at all.
When I woke up I felt very odd. My head hurt and standing up was difficult. I had read a bit about absinthe hangovers being rough on the equilibrium so I spent most of the morning lying or sitting on the floor (or in the bathroom). Scott had a bit of a hangover himself despite not drinking any absinthe. We had actually made plans to go to some kind of brewery today but we weren't in the mood to rush out and start drinking again so we cancelled. I felt bad that my plan had ended up affecting his plan but he insisted it was no big deal and we could just go some other time.
We ate lunch at Shin Osaka station which I only mention because it was particularly delicious. We had curry but this place was a little different. They offered two distinct styles, the typical Japanese style (which was curiously called "European Style" on their English menu) and a "dry taste" Indian-style. "Dry taste" was written 辛口 (karakuchi) and I recognized the first of those symbols as meaning "spicy." I chose the "dry taste" sauce and I was impressed. It was the best curry I've had in Japan, indeed, the best curry I had eaten in a while. Much spicier than normal! I also got the "half-cooked" (半熟, hanjuku) egg on top which turned out to be their way of saying soft-boiled.
Scott and I spent the day walking around Nanba and Umeda, checking out Den Den Town among other things. I took notice of the high concentration of "adult" video stores nestled in between (sometimes inside) the many electronics stores; Scott pointed out that it was a safe assumption that anyone interested in electronics this much was probably a connoisseur of the erotic arts (my words, not his). Somehow, these stores seemed a lot less seedy or creepy than the adult video stores you see in the U.S. Perhaps because porn doesn't quite carry the social stigma it does at home? Maybe they just had better lighting.
OK, I'm very tired. Not much else happened today anyway; we took it easy today so that we might try drinking again tomorrow. Typing a two day post is exhausting, especially one with pictures and tales of drinking and trying to meet women. Fuck trying, I did meet women. A winner is me!
First snail I've seen in a long time that wasn't served to me on a plate.
A few minutes after yesterday's novelty post, I went on a little cultural expedition of sorts. Foreign students like myself are encouraged to join one of the myriad of student clubs here at KG. Of course, none of the clubs were active before the Japanese students started showing up last week so I've had to wait nearly a month to explore my options. Since I seem to have an affinity for kanji and I yearn to express myself artistically, I figured I would check out the Shodô (書道) club, a.k.a. Japanese calligraphy.
Since it's a "traditional" art form, we practiced in a Japanese-style room (和室, washitsu) and sat on the floor. Ideally, shodô should be done while sitting in the seiza (正座) position but since that hurts like hell and takes a lot of practice to do right anyway they said it didn't matter. I suppose I could try practicing that in my dorm room sometimes, it would do me some good to be a little more flexible.
Here's the results of my first day. My first ever attempt is in the lower-left hand corner. Pretty skinny and ugly; as they put it, "more fatter is better." One of the girls in the club then painted an example for me to follow, seen directly above it. I then painted the one to the right and then the one below it. Some improvement, I would say, so not bad for an hour's work. You may notice that's the same character seen in the feitclub.com banner seen on every page of my website. It can be translated as "fight." Get it? It's just another part of my wicked pun of a sitename.
The artist poses with his best work of the day
I returned to dorm to prepare for an evening on the streets of Osaka. Since today was a national holiday, Autumnal Equinox Day (秋分の日, shûbun no hi), I felt it was in my best interest to start partying on Thursday night. Scott agreed, and we made a plan to meet in Shinsaibashi (心斎橋). I invited the aforementioned girl next to me in the computer room to join us but she eventually said she had other plans. I'll ask her again though, I think she's looking to party.
The best part of this story is where I had planned to go. I had heard some incidental information in Japanese class yesterday about someplace called "Club Absinthe." Hearing the A-word caught my attention: it's illegal in the States although I did have some at a New Year's party two years ago. This was the first I had heard of it since and I had no idea it was legal here in Japan. I asked if that was "just a name" or if they really served the good shit. She said she thought they did but she heard about it from a friend and had yet to go. Probing for more info (and also wondering if we might go together or something) I asked her where it was. She again said her friend knew but told me that her friend heard about it from a professor. Get this: it was one of my professors, the same cool guy who gave the only speech worth hearing at the Opening Ceremonies last month!
Since I knew him from class I figured it would be perfectly acceptable to knock on his office door and ask him about the club. The lights were out but he was in there, apparently about to rest up before his first class of the day. I hesitated to knock but I figured there was no harm in it; he wasn't asleep yet and invited me in. I must say, the professors' offices here are really nice. Lots of space, a private sink and obviously the A/C is under their complete control. His office was fucking freezing and I love that. He also had a bad-ass poster of some Japanese movie starring Ken Takakura. I swear, this guy is in the running for coolest teacher worldwide. He drew me a map of how to get to the place from Shinsaibashi station and also told me all about the owner, a Russian guy named Demitri who married a Japanese woman he met in Israel. Of course, they serve Middle Eastern food, an unexpected bonus! I thought I'd not find any here at all and I grew quite fond of it this summer.
Map in hand, I met Scott down in Shinsaibashi. Scott apparently used to live in this area so he was very familiar with all the streets and such, although he didn't know this particular place. He also had no idea what Absinthe was. He'd find out soon enough! The map worked perfectly. First, you walk down Midosuji St. (御堂筋通り) and turn right between the "OPA" building and Hotel Nikko. Follow this street until it comes to a T-stop. Turn right and look to the right.
Standing on Midosuji St. looking right. That's OPA on the left.
There she is! Of course, the sign is green.
It's actually called "Cafe Absinthe" but otherwise his directions were perfect. Sitting inside there was just like being back in New York, only cooler in a way. There were more foreigners inside than Japanese and the staff spoke to us in English, a nice change of pace. The menu was clear and easy to read too, with everything clearly written in both languages. Everyone was chill as fuck and nearly everyone was drinking or smoking (some both, can't do that in NY anymore). I ended up ordering a falafel sandwich which was a little pricey but not outrageously so. The beers were a little steep though, with the cheapest drafts at 600 Yen. My falafel was, of course, uniquely Japanese. Instead of a big burrito-like wrapped sandwich, I got four falafels individually placed in small pieces of pita bread with a dipping sauce and small pieces of vegetables on the side. Very tasty!
Alright, enough bullshit about the food: it's absinthe time. With two beers in my stomach and the last train and my wallet on my mind, I opted to try the basic, cheapest brand they offered (but still 800 Yen). Just one glass this one time. There was an amusing little ritual where the absinthe was poured over a sugar cube into a glass and then the cube was burned. Once the fire went out, I was told to pour water over the cube into the glass and drink the solution.
Fire GOOD!
If you've never drank absinthe, it tastes absolutely awful. The only flavor I can compare it to is licorice which I can't stand either. If you have drank it before and you know how it can make you feel, I'm afraid my story may disappoint you. Maybe it was just the brand or the fact that I only had one glass but I didn't get any of the funny effects. It was merely one stiff-ass drink, not that there's anything wrong with that! However, the prices were a little steep for us to make a night of it so Scott and I decided to leave. As I summoned the check, who should show up but my professor! I said hi and thanked him again, introduced him to Scott as he introduced me to all his friends. Two of them had actually been sitting next to us the entire evening. I wanted to kick myself for leaving as my professor was coming since I've never ever had an opportunity to hang out with an authority figure like that, but I was there with Scott and it would have been really awkward for him, I think. Maybe next time (and there will be a next time, I promise).
We took a stroll down a few side streets and reached a small park full of young people out for the evening. Since neither of us were tipsy enough, we opted to buy some beer in a nearby convenience store and drink in the park. That's perfectly legal here in Japan, by the way, another reason things are a little cooler here than in New York. Scott bought one first before I realized that was OK, then I went in for one of my own. In the store I made eye contact with a American guy wearing a Red Sox hat; we exchanged a "what's up" head nod. When I came out, I was surprised to see he and his Japanese (male) friend were chatting with Scott. We all ended up hanging out in the park for an hour or so, and eventually one of their Japanese (female) friends came by and joined us. It turns out both Japanese folks were KG students, although the American was at a different university in the area.
Scott demonstrates an inexpensive way to have fun in Japan, conbini ("conveni[ence]") drinking.
Free dance show in the park that night! As wild as New York is, you don't often see people doing choreographed dances for fun in public. Panhandling, maybe...
From left to right, Tôru, Rob/Bob (forgot which but both sound right) and Asuka. Fun side note: Tôru actually asked me if I had "fucked anyone" yet at KG.
While we were hanging out, it came time for me to leave if I was to catch the last train. Since we were having fun, Scott suggested I skip it and just stay out with him and eventually crash at his place. I agreed. We left the park and our new friends behind to recover Scott's bike and start the long trek towards his home. Along the way we took advantage of Japan's liberal attitude towards public micturition. Scott wasn't sure if it's completely legal but no one seemed to care when we went in a dark street corner.
When we reached Scott's bike there was a minor logistical problem: he had one and I didn't, so our only option was for me to sit on the back while Scott pedaled. This is a common sight in Japan but it wasn't easy. First, I had to hold my feet off the ground which required a fair amount of leg strength. Second, there was enough space for me but it wasn't padded at all, so every bump felt like getting kicked in the nuts. Did you know that every paved intersection in Japan has ridges? I do now!
At one point we actually got stopped by a cop who didn't like what we were doing. He was more concerned that the bike might be stolen which is Japan's most common crime. Being foreigners, we obviously fit his description of "suspicious." However, our delay was negligible and he didn't even bother to ask for our papers. Indeed, I'm not even sure why he really stopped us.
Eventually we had to stop because I couldn't take all the bumping or the strain of holding my legs off the ground anymore. We made it all the way to Umeda which was still quite active despite the late hour. Scott locked his bike near a pedestrian bridge and we hit a nearby bar that Scott said "catered to foreigners." There were quite a few inside but it wasn't anything like the disparity we experienced in Cafe Absinthe. We each had one drink and then things got tricky. There was a cute Japanese girl sitting alone at the bar and Scott suggested I go talk to her. Naturally, I had a million reasons not to but they were all bullshit and I knew it. So I went to the bathroom first before approaching this complete stranger and trying to initiate conversation. Strictly speaking, I have never done anything like this in my entire life.
Oddly enough, I wasn't that nervous. Maybe it was the alcohol or maybe I was just starting to get used to the idea of meeting strangers. It was a moot point anyway; she simply wasn't interested. On Scott's suggestion, I tried to begin in English (something like "Would you like to talk?") since it was a foreigner bar and he assumed she was looking for one. She indicated that she didn't speak English. I tried a follow-up in Japanese (Hanashitai?) but she again passed on my offer to talk. No big deal, really; I'll probably never see her again so who cares.
We ended up meeting some people instead: a trio of girls from Morocco, a business-suit guy from New York and two British dudes. Everyone spoke English so the conversations came easily. I actually never drank another beer although I did smoke a few cigarettes; whenever one of the ladies pulled one out I offered to light it and got one in return. We ended up playing a casual game of darts using some machine. I have no idea how to play beyond throwing the darts towards the middle but no one really cared. One girl in particular was being very flirty, casually making contact with me whenever we passed one another. So I went ahead and flirted right back, touching her whenever she came near. Nothing dirty, mostly hands, arms, shoulders and the occasional waist. It felt liberating to finally be like those guys I always envied in bars, casually touching a complete stranger because we were both just having a good time.
Eventually Scott and I went back to his place; it was getting pretty late and we both tired. If I had been there alone or if I had my own place in Osaka, maybe I could have tried to initiate something else with that flirty girl. I don't know what, where or how, but I could have tried something. I probably should have tried to get her number but I didn't. So sue me. I had fun, and that's the point of that story. We taxied back to Scott's home and crashed. I actually slept fairly well this time and Scott said I didn't snore much at all.
When I woke up I felt very odd. My head hurt and standing up was difficult. I had read a bit about absinthe hangovers being rough on the equilibrium so I spent most of the morning lying or sitting on the floor (or in the bathroom). Scott had a bit of a hangover himself despite not drinking any absinthe. We had actually made plans to go to some kind of brewery today but we weren't in the mood to rush out and start drinking again so we cancelled. I felt bad that my plan had ended up affecting his plan but he insisted it was no big deal and we could just go some other time.
We ate lunch at Shin Osaka station which I only mention because it was particularly delicious. We had curry but this place was a little different. They offered two distinct styles, the typical Japanese style (which was curiously called "European Style" on their English menu) and a "dry taste" Indian-style. "Dry taste" was written 辛口 (karakuchi) and I recognized the first of those symbols as meaning "spicy." I chose the "dry taste" sauce and I was impressed. It was the best curry I've had in Japan, indeed, the best curry I had eaten in a while. Much spicier than normal! I also got the "half-cooked" (半熟, hanjuku) egg on top which turned out to be their way of saying soft-boiled.
Scott and I spent the day walking around Nanba and Umeda, checking out Den Den Town among other things. I took notice of the high concentration of "adult" video stores nestled in between (sometimes inside) the many electronics stores; Scott pointed out that it was a safe assumption that anyone interested in electronics this much was probably a connoisseur of the erotic arts (my words, not his). Somehow, these stores seemed a lot less seedy or creepy than the adult video stores you see in the U.S. Perhaps because porn doesn't quite carry the social stigma it does at home? Maybe they just had better lighting.
OK, I'm very tired. Not much else happened today anyway; we took it easy today so that we might try drinking again tomorrow. Typing a two day post is exhausting, especially one with pictures and tales of drinking and trying to meet women. Fuck trying, I did meet women. A winner is me!
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Hey Fire God,
That picture of the snail is so cool. I would have picked it up with my hands and ran arround showing it to people.
I love the adventure you are having.
Joe
That picture of the snail is so cool. I would have picked it up with my hands and ran arround showing it to people.
I love the adventure you are having.
Joe
Yay! I'm glad you had fun. In terms of the girls-- I think it takes a lot of casual practice to be 100% confortable, but you're on your way there.
I'm jealous you went to an Absinthe bar. I've tried it here, but it's so watered down that it's not the good stuff. And I agree-- it tastes pretty gross.
A question for you-- do people drink as much in Japan as they do over here? If you could drink in public in NY every night would be chaos in the parks and on the street corners, don't you think? Why isn't it a problem there?
-h
I'm jealous you went to an Absinthe bar. I've tried it here, but it's so watered down that it's not the good stuff. And I agree-- it tastes pretty gross.
A question for you-- do people drink as much in Japan as they do over here? If you could drink in public in NY every night would be chaos in the parks and on the street corners, don't you think? Why isn't it a problem there?
-h
When I was in France I saw Absinthe for sale -- but it's just a very strong alcohol made from the same plant without the crazy side effects. Maybe that's what you had.
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